Santiaguito erupting right on schedule.
The four-hour hike up Volcán Santa Maria starts at 1 am sharp. They tell you to bring a flashlight, but for much of the trail you don’t need it. The full moon exposes every rock, root and crevice.
Climbing a mountain at night is intensely film noir. The lush vegetation and earth [...]
They offer you a horse before you set off on the 2.8-kilometre, 1.5-hour hike up Volcano Pacaya. Most people decline, but the horses go up anyway.
“Taxi? Taxi?” the horsemen offer periodically, as if secretly mocking us: “Foolhardy humans! You think your pretty, well-maintained nature sidewalks prepared you for this?